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Abuja Craft Markets – 1 July 2006

           

Unfortunately, this trip had to be postponed due to the illness of 80% of the would-be participants on 24 June.  It was rescheduled for the following weekend, Saturday, 1 July 2006.  Then, due to work conflicts, it was delayed from 10:30 am to 1:30 pm, when we finally did get on the road. 

 

There were 7 of us all together – a nice group for marketing.  We drove out to Dikko market first (see directions below).  Compared to Wuse, it is 45 minutes away, smaller, less crowded, ¼ of the price for similar goods, better spread out, and more comfortable to shop.  There are Fulani crafts at this market, and the market goes on all day Saturday.  We walked around the market 1½ times – the first time to get an idea of what’s where for how much, then we went back to get what we liked.  We saw:  carved calabashes, calabash spoons, plastic shower curtains with Nigerian-style patterns printed on them, hand-made rope, butter, yoghurt, a kind of cheese, palm oil, fabrics for men’s clothing, fabrics for curtains, fabrics for women’s clothing (the brightly colored, multi-patterned ones), beans of all sorts, dried figs, nuts, transistor radio components, sandals of every variety, western-style sport clothes, barbers, small electronics, yams/cassava – both fresh and dried, roast corn, fried dough balls, fruits, women feeding their babies, people (mostly women) with various interesting markings – both scarifications and Henna tattoos, a snake charmer, woven mats (natural fiber, wide bamboo slats, narrow bamboo slats, and plastic) – both for the table and for the floor; well, more – it’s a market.  It took us about 2 hours inside the market.

 

Then, we split into two groups:  those who needed to go home, and those who wanted to go to the arts and crafts market near the life camps (some people refer to this one as Mama Africa – directions below).  This market is very small, only fewer than 50 stalls, tightly packed into a little rectangle of overlapping tents.  There, they sell only hand carved objects, beads, small carved wooden tables, leather goods, fabrics, paintings, and other arts and crafts.  The variety is very good, as is often the quality.  The prices – you have to bargain hard.  This is what our Indian friend does:  he goes up to the seller, and not necessarily having asked him his price tells the seller how much he is willing to pay for an item (usually 20% of the asking price).  He then tells the seller that the seller knows where to find him when he is ready to sell the object for that price and just walks away to do more shopping.  So, nothing happens.  Then, as we are clearly leaving the market and heading toward the car, all of a sudden several sellers come running after him with the objects in hand – ready to sell at his price.  We stayed in this market less than one hour, and went home.  I think everyone who joined is quite happy.

 

Attendees:

Beatrice

Christian

John

Susanna

Ruth

Kyle

Roman

 

Rating:

Easy.

 

Security:

Diko seems very safe.  The isles are broad, people don’t bunch up around you, there is plenty of space, the trip is almost all 4-lane, there are many cars in the parking lot.  Leave someone with the cars and make sure you keep in sight of all the members of the party, keep your money separate from your wallet, and keep both in different front pockets of your clothing.  Keep your money in small bunches, say, of 1 – 2 thousand Naira, so you don’t have to pull out that 10,000 Naira wad in front of everyone to buy that 100 Naira goat leash that you just must have!

 

Mama Africa seems very safe.  It is particularly uncrowded.  It is staffed 99% by the craftsmen/importers, the clientele is mostly ex-pats. 

 

The Wuse parking lot is very crowded.  There are security personnel.  Pay the 50 Naira and go through the hassle of parking inside, as you may be ticketed, booted, or downright towed parking outside.  My friends say they have never had any problems in the market, quite the opposite.  The market is crowded, the isles are narrow and full, and you will be bumped very often.  Hire a wheelbarrow boy - 50N to 100N depending on how much you plan to buy and how long he’ll have to follow you; be sure to negotiate the price before and pay after the work is performed.  Bring someone with you who’s been there before.

 

Gear:

Loose clothing adaptable for air-conditioned cars, hot markets, and possible rain and mud.  Sun hat and sunscreen are advisable as are 2 large bottles of water per person and snacks, though you can buy roast corn, fried dough balls, peanuts and peanut snacks, dried plantain strips, and fresh bananas, among other instantly edible items.

 

Costs:

Fuel, plus 50N per vehicle to park at Wuse.

In Wuse, bargain hard!  Here are some examples: 

-  AA Duracell Coppertop batteries – pack of 4:  Grand Square 375N, Wuse starting price 350N, Diko price 50N (I’m not missing a digit in front – it’s 50N).

-  small 60W regular base bulb:  Wuse white person’s starting price 150N, Nigerian person’s starting price 100N, sold price to Nigerian 80N.

-  One bolt of cloth of “women’s” fabric:  Diko white person’s asking price 2,500 Naira, Nigerian customer’s offer to the seller 1,500 Naira.  Kyle bought two bolts for 2,400 Naira for both (not for each).

 

Timing:

45 minutes each way to Diko - Saturdays, 10 minutes each way to Mama Africa – every day, 10 minutes each way to Wuse – every day.

 

Directions:

Wuse – ask.

 

Mama Africa: 

- From Maitama, Shehu Shagari till it dead-ends into the 4-lane (ring road?).

- Left onto the 4-lane.

- 1st right onto the road that leads to Life Camps – just there where they are building the flyover (overpass).

- Cross bridge over lake.

- Pass the following landmarks just over bridge, in direct succession on the right pass the Abuja Horse and Country Club, next on the right, parallel dirt road with plants for sale (Kyle loves this place – huge variety, good quality, good prices), then the small roundabout leading to life camp (esp. BNL).

- Continue straight on the 4-lane until you come to the roundabout – it is huge, and take the 3rd exit from it Stadium/Airport – essentially you will have made a left turn and are now headed toward Abuja.

- Go about the length of 1 city block and look for a cluster of white tents arranged in a rectangle in the middle of the grassy (in the rainy season) field.  Park and shop!

 

Diko: 

- From Maitama, Shehu Shagari till it dead-ends into the 4-lane (ring road?).

- Right onto the 4-lane.

- Go to end (about 1Km), and turn left toward Minna.

- Go about 13Km to Biwater treatment facility at Lower Usuma Dam.

- Continue straight (do not turn to Usuma) about another 19Km to flyover (overpass)

- Right toward Minna.

- Go another 4Km and pass Zuma Rock.

- Go another 18Km to the turnoff for Diko (same as Gurara Falls).  Pay attention:  you are now on a 4-lane, divided highway.  The turnoff is to the left, but because the highway is divided by a deep median with barrier, you cannot make the left turn, and so there are no signs in the direction in which you are traveling that this is the turnoff to Diko!  It is about 18Km from Zuma Rock.  When you get to that point, slow down and you will see on the left a busy intersection market.  Continue another ¼Km and turn around at the U-turn crossing.  Go back and now you will see the sign for Diko.  Take that first right and immediately pull into the market on the left.  Park your car and leave someone to watch it while you visit the market.