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Bida


•• BRITISH

•• COUNCIL

            Updated 14 March 2008

 

Bida is famed for its handicrafts, its colourful Fulani market, and the fact that it’s the main town of the Nupes. The Etsu Nupe has his palace in the town.

 

To get to Bida:

Take the Kaduna Rd. (from the Hilton Hotel – up to Maitama on Shehu Shagari to end, turn right onto ring road, go to end and turn left, look for an exit down off the expressway onto the road under the bridge) past Zuma Rock and take the left hand turn at Dikko (pass Dikko junction, do a U-turn and make a right). Dikko itself has a good market on Saturdays.

Continue on this road until you come to a T junction.

Take the right hand turn towards Bida and Minna. There are a large number of police road checks on this stretch of the road. (Turning left would bring you back into Suleja.)

At Lambatta, take the turn to the left for Bida - Lambatta has a good market which is held every four days. (The road to the right leads to Gurara Falls, Paiko and Minna, the capital of Niger State.)

This is now a straight road to Bida. The journey time from central Abuja to Bida is about 3 hours. The road is reasonable with only about 15 km of poor road which is currently (May 2005) undergoing repair.  (March 2007 update – no repairs have been made.  The trip is more like 4 hours.)

 

The road to Bida goes through Lapai so it’s worth checking to see what the woodcarvers have in stock before proceeding to Bida; you can always come back to Lapai to pick up the Nupe stools and the carved wooded doors made here.

 

There is Old Lapai which you will pass, and then New Lapai about 10K farther.  As you enter Lapai, take the first turn to the left at the small monument (on a triangular island, and is covered with plackards). Carry along this road for 500m or so and then turn right onto Jannari Rd. (2nd turning) and then first right again. The house and workshop is on the LHS not even a block down, and you should look out for the carved wood shutters and doors. You are looking for Gidan Duwatsu at G79, Gindinga Rd, Lapai. If you can not find the house/workshop, stop a machine (motorcycle) rider and ask him to take you there.

 

The workshop makes “Bida” stools, the multi-legged stools carved from a single piece of wood. They also carve Nupe doors and large carved pounding pots.

 

Contacts:  Jibrin, Audu, or Isah Duwatsu – 0805-821-2549 hakurkalt@yahoo.com.  Farther – Duwatsu Muhammadu.

 

It’s really interesting to watch the men working on the wooden pieces. They will carve items to order and will willingly carve items from pictures. The prices here are very reasonable, for example a new Bida stool which may cost N4000 in Alhaji Tanko’s shop in Bida will cost N500 here in Lapai. (March 2007 – prices have gone up as the carvers have learned of the prices their stools bring in the market or Alhaji Tanko’s.  Bargain hard – start no more than at 1/3 the asking price.)  A four panel carved door costs upwards of N10,000.

 

After Lapai, the road passes through Agaie, one of the three Nupe Emirates (the other two being Lapi and Bida). There are many very tall termite mounds on the LHS.  The road crosses the railway just before the bridge over the Kaduna river. There is a small market on the RHS (market day Thursday (??)) which has a number of unusual pots for sale. The road then passes Baddegi which is the home of the National Cereal Research Institute. The shade of the avenue of trees on the LHS leading up to the gates of the NCRI makes a good place for a picnic on the way home. The area around NCRI is famed for its rice. The area is also a good place for bird watching. It’s worth looking out for the rice paddies and the wetland areas and then taking one of the tracks down into the area. It’s also a good place to spot Carmine Bee Eaters, Abassynian Rollers, Adnims, Storks, etc.

 

Bead Makers:

 

As you enter Bida itself, look out for the old rice mill and the Lafiya Clinic on the RHS and then take the road (very badly broken tar) to the left. The sign will be to Masaga / Musaga. Continue down this road for three hundred metres or so passing the remains of small round buildings which were used by the bead makers but have either fallen into disrepair or have been converted into the entrances of family compounds. The buildings can be identified by their triangular windows to allow good airflow.

 

After three hundred metres or so you will see the bead shop on the RHS. Park just slightly farther on under the shade of a tree next to the small Islamic school.

 

The beads made in Bida are from recycled glass so you will be welcomed with open arms if you bring with you the last few weeks/months supplies of empty wine bottles or other glass containers, especially if they are blue or other slightly more unusual colours. It is said that the first craftsmen working with glass came to Bida from Egypt in the 18th Century. Bida is the only place in Africa using this technique for the production of beads and bangles.

 

In the Middle East, the glassmakers of Hebron still make their glass bangles in the same way as the craftsmen of Bida.

 

The beads made here are barrel shaped, often with a distinctive white spiral glass twist on them. The colour of the beads depends upon the glass available but the usual colours are blackish brown, green, yellow, clear brown, and blue.

 

The bead makers here will be pleased to show you the bead making process although it will cost you (negotiate first) if they have to light the fires again. They tend to work early in the morning when it is slightly cooler. They will be happy to make bangles, beads, or snakes for you from one of the bottles which you have brought. It’s a good place for photos but again you will need to pay to take them.  If you don’t phone ahead and arrive wanting this service, the charge is N10,000.  If you phone ahead – Yahaya Muhammed, 0805-819-7716, and you ask when the next day is that bead making will take place, you will be able to negotiate this price down to N2000 or less.  If you phone ahead and make arrangements to fit your own schedule, expect to pay N3000.

 

The shop contains work from more than one bead maker, but it is easier to try to negotiate a price with one person after you have made your selection rather than with each individual maker. A string of small beads may cost N200 but the large beads when strung together may cost up to N2000. The shop also contains beads which have not been made in Bida and occasionally there are some really interesting examples from Nigeria and other places in West Africa, it is worth spending time to look carefully.

 

One reference book on bead making says that Bida is famed for both its beads made from recycled glass and its stone bead making. I have never managed to find out anything more about the stone bead making, so if you do, please do let me know!

 

There is a good description of the bead making process in Bida in:

Beads and Beadwork in West and Central Africa. Margret Carey. Shire Ethnography 1991 ISBN 0 7478 0100 2.

Published by Shire Publications, UK..

 

Beads: An exploration of bead traditions around the world. Janet Coles and Robert Budwig. (1997) Simon and Schuster Editions ISBN 0 684 83462 6

 

Brass Making:

 

Continue down the road past the bead shop for another 200m and you will come to the brass area. There area a number of small shops selling brass objects from extremely large brass storage containers to small ashtrays and plates. All of the work is of a poor quality and most of the brass items are not made here. It’s worth stopping for a short while to see what there is in the shops as occasionally there are interesting pieces, but you will have to look very hard. You can commission items from the traders here for presents, but do take care to give very clear instructions on design, decoration, engraving, etc. The sellers also have “silver” items for sale.

 

Brass Works are found in the following areas of Bida town: Gbongbofu, Tswatako and Tswata Mukun.

 


Bida I Nupe Stools

 

The easiest way to locate both old and new Nupe stools is to go to visit Aihaji Tanko. He normally has a number of both for sale. He also has a number of Bida pots and often some carved Nupe doors. He has also started to deal in textiles (both traditional Nupe cloth and the men’s narrow weave cloth which has been made up in baban rigas). 

 

To find Alhaji Tanko: From Abuja go into Bida past the road to the bead makers and take the first main road on the LHS at the crossroad with garages on two corners on the RHS. Go under the city gates and down this road for 200-300 metres until you see a small mosque on the RHS. Park carefully two buildings farther on the RHS, do take care the road is narrow and there are many machines (motorcycles). AIhaji Tanko runs a small shop from the front room of his home (on the far left-hand corner of where a dirt road comes in). He will bring out stools, weaving sticks, pots, textiles from his back room or will call for others to bring them in.  Bargain hard!  Start by offering no more than 1/3 of the asking price.  Better to start by offering your own price rather than asking for his price.

 

Bida stools are made from one single piece of wood and are usually circular or oblong. The round stools have up to 10 legs. The price of stools depends upon their age, the number of legs and the number of cross-overs on the legs, the size, etc. Stools can be purchased from N2500 upwards. Weaving sticks with interesting carvings are usually about N500. Nupe doors are for sale at a starting price of N30,000.

 

If you want something specific or want to make sure that AIhaji Tanko has some items in stock give him a call before travelling. He can be reached on: 0803-514-5873. If you can not find his house give him a call and he will send his son to find you.

 

Many of the stools which are for sale have been repaired so do check carefully. Some of the stools have wood worm but it is easy to kill the eggs and larvae by placing the wooden articles in a domestic freezer for a number of days.

 

AIh Tanko has a number of old Bida pots and sometimes has a number of the older “wedding pots” which have incised decorations and beaten metal ornaments. The pots usually have metal lids, but many of these are now missing.

 

 

Small market

 

Continue down this road until just before the roundabout and park on the RHS near the large tree (on the LHS). Enter the small market by the steps near the tree. Under the shade of this tree is the Fulani market, with butter, Furra, Warra, etc., for sale. There are also, at the right time of the year, a large number of people carving calabashes. Painted and carved calabashes (as well as plain gourds) are available in one of the small shops near the entrance to the market. Note the black and white calabashes which come from Kontogora. The young Fulani women here have extremely impressive hair decorations and bead jewellery.

 

Farther into the market you can find Fulani sticks, beads, cloth, khol containers, etc. There is also a small pot area. At the end of the small market is the entrance to the larger market with fruit, meat, dried fish, household goods, etc. It is a good place to buy local rice since the rice mill at the entrance to the town seems not to be operating.

 

The market is also a good place to look for old Nupe weaving and interesting hats which are distinctly Nupe with fabric woven rather than the embroidery of traditional Hausa hats.

 

The market is a good place to find someone to take you to the home of some of the weavers in the area. The car can be left in the same place as it’s only a five-minute walk to the family compounds of the weavers.

 

 

Weaving

 

For a full description of Nupe weaving see:

 

Nigerian Weaving. Venice Lamb and Judy Holmes. Published by H A and V M Lamb (1980) ISBN 0 907129 005

 

Nigerian Hand Crafted Textiles. Joanne Bubolz Eicher. University of Ife Press (1976) ISBN 978 136 002 X

 

Nupe women weave on the vertical loom. The looms are placed within the depths of house compounds either in individual rooms or along verandas in inner courtyards. The Nupe weave cloth with two distinct systems of patterning, one based on warp alignment, and the other on inlay. One cloth type to look out for is called Duna.

 

Duna cloth has two distinct features. Firstly, the background is broken up by an array of thin warp stripes, each of one or two threads, about a quarter of an inch apart. Secondly, on this background is woven a sequence of extremely bold and distinctive inlay designs. The background can be traditionally blue or white. On the blue background, the inlay is usually red or green, and on the white background black may be added to these colours. Modern Duna cloth is sold in the market as “Bida Cloth.”

 

Normally, Duna cloths are purchased either with three panels (men’s wear) or two panels (women’s wear).

 

When you are in the compounds, look out for the enamel or china plates positioned in the plaster or mud finish on the outside of the buildings. These are said to be both a form of decoration and a sign of wealth. Look out for the range of enamel and china plates used.

 

Men weave, too, in Bida. Men’s weave is on the horizontal loom with Nupe cloth woven by men being about 10-12 cm wide. The cloth is sewn together and is used for the production of men’s gowns which are also embroidered here in Bida. The cotton used for the weaving is usually purchased from local markets although people used to spin their own cotton for use in weaving. The cotton and the strips woven are then dyed using natural indigo dyes.

 

To ensure that you get to see the weavers at work or see the family compounds where cloth may be on sale, ask Alh Tanko’s son to arrange a visit for you.

 

 

Other places to see:

 

Etsu Bida’s palace:

 

Travel through Bida on the road towards Kutigi. The Etsu’s palace is on the RHS before you leave the town. It is well worth visiting Bida for the Durbar celebrations at the end of Ramadan. The procession from the prayer ground to the Etsu’s palace and the Durbar itself match the more popularly visited Durbars in the north of the country.

 

Town Walls:

 

Bida was a walled town but few sections of the mud wall now exist. The one place where you may be able to see the town wall is close to the Etsu’s palace and on the way to the Federal Polytechnic in Bida. From the Etsu’s palace drive back toward town and take the first main road to the RHS (close to a small market and a number of eating places). Drive down this road toward the river and the GRA. The remains of the wall can be found on the LHS.

 

Embroidery:

 

Contact Ahmed Abdulkarim on 0805 8018671 or 0806531618. He is one of the main people providing high quality embroidery for baban rigas, etc. He will come and meet you in Bida to guide you to the compounds where the work is done. Well worth hunting him out!

 

Places to eat:

 

Try Classy Restaurant: Go back to the junction on the main road where there are two petrol stations on the corner, close to the traffic control site. The restaurant is on the LHS after about 150—200 metres.

 

Place to stay:

 

A small guest house in Bida is one that I used. It was small and clean but had no food. There was power and water. It’s in the GRA area at the far end of town on the road to the polytechnic and within 5 minutes of the Etsu’s palace.  I think it’s called something like CS and S guest house, phone: 0803-464-0770.

 

Catherine

 

Subsequent edits by Roman