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Gwari Villages


•• BRITISH

•• COUNCIL

 

Things to do near Abuja

 

Pots:

 

If you are interested in seeing Gwari pots being made and do not want just to buy the pots from the sellers at Giri (known to most people as the pot market at Gwagwalada), there are a number of villages close to Abuja that are worth visiting to see the potters at work.

 

 

Guye:

 

Take the road out of Abuja toward the airport and go past the turnoff to the left to Kuje. This road is a few kilometres before the turnoff to the airport on the right hand side (RHS). After the Kuje turn, go over a small bridge and then take the next turn on the left (about half a kilometre from the Kuje turn). Go through the village with the football field on the right hand side and the small bush bar on the LHS (with good palm wine). The road is very sandy and may require you to go into 4WD during the dry season. Drive on the main track for about 6 Kilometres until you come to the village of Guye. This is the first village from the tarred roadside.

 

There are a number of female potters in Guye. Ask around and you will be directed to the women who are still making pots. Many of the designs derive from influences such as birds and beasts, plant life, religion and pure practicality.

 

 

Iddo:

 

Take the road out of Abuja toward the airport and continue past the turnoff to the airport (Bill Clinton Drive).  After a few kilometres, there are a number of stalls on the RHS selling yams, onions etc.  In the middle of the stalls is a turnoff on the RHS with a sign to lddo. Take care when turning off the main road as the cars following you come very fast along this road and the turnoff is not clear.  There is also a sharp drop from the main road to the track.

 

lddo is only one kilometre from the main road. The first building on the LHS is a pink, green and brown set of shops.  A little farther on, there is a primary school on the RHS. Take this turn to the right and then go straight ahead for 200m or so. Stop and ask for the potters. There are a number in this area of the village. You will not see the pots outside the compounds as the pots are made by the women in the compounds. You may see small piles of unprocessed clay outside the houses, however.

 

There are other families who make pots. Return to the main road and continue through the village of lddo Sarkin Pada. Take note of the small grain stores in the village and in the family compounds. At the end of the dry season, they are all re-thatched and renovated. Go through the village until you see a small mosque on the LHS. Park here and enquire. There are a number of Gwari potters in this area. Just beyond the mosque there is an open space which is used as the firing ground for potters in this area of the village.

 

Firing is done irregularly and appears not to be done collectively. If you see pots which you like but are not fired it is possible to pay for the wood to be purchased for the firing to be done. Prior to the main firing, all the pots are preheated over small fires within the compounds to ensure that the pots are fully dry and that there are no pockets of air. If these air pockets remain. there is a danger that the pots will crack and shatter when firing occurs.

 

After firing the pots are splashed with an infusion of the pods of the locust bean tree to make them water-resistant. A Guinea corn flour and water mixture is rubbed into the designs to make them stand out.

 

Many people who make pots here in Iddo take their pots to the market at Mandalla in Zuba (near Zuma rock).

 

Prices: The small pots cost N80. The very large water pots cost N700.

 

 

Tatico:

 

Tatico is approximately 5 km from Paiko near Minna. Take the Kaduna road from Abuja and then turn left off this road past Dikko (don’t forget the good market on Saturdays). At Lambata (the market is every four days so look out to see if you are passing through on the right day), take the road to Minna and do not turn off to Bida. The road to Paiko takes you passed the entrance to Gurara Falls (worth visiting both during the dry and during the rainy seasons: entrance fee N100 pen person). Paiko is the next large village after about 15 km. Do look out for the different village structures in this area where Hausa, Bxxxx and Gwari all live.

 

In Paiko, turn off to the left into the village. Take the first road on the RHS which leads past he market. Paiko market takes place on Fridays and is well worth visiting. There are piles of pots left at the market from one week to the next but these are not for sale.

 

Continue down this road for about 3 km and then look out for a turnoff on the RHS. There is a sign on the LHS for Tatico Union Bank (but the sign is rather difficult to spot). The road to Tatico is rather uneven and should not be attempted in a low clearance vehicle (although we did not need to us a 4WD). Tatico village is reached after about 4 kilometres. Drive through the village and you will see piles of pots outside many of the compounds. The village is famous for both its weaving and its pots.

 

Pots:

 

The pots made range from small money boxes to large 20 gallon water coolers, beautifully bellied and adorned with decoration characteristic of that village. The large water pots are highly porous which enables an excellent transfer of heat to the atmosphere through evaporation. Equally associated with the porosity of the vessels is their resistance to thermal shocks. This means that as cooking pots they will survive being stood over a naked flame or in hot ashes while food is being prepared in them.

 

The women of Tatico are responsible for all the processes of pot making from the digging of the clay (about 2 km from the village) to the firing of the pots and then the sale of the pots in the local markets.

 

One of the characteristics of the larger Tatico pots is the rouletted patterns made by rolling a millet cob or something similar over the surface. This, combined with parallel lines circling the belly and shoulder of the pot, produce a most beautiful effect. Often strategically arranged bare areas bordered by short vertical lines are left in preparation for the application of a red pigment which is added after the pot has dried.

 

Near the village are deposits of decomposed laterite or brickstone which the potters grind into fine powder and rub with water to form the bright red pigment. This is then rubbed into the prepared patches of the pattern. Each pot is different but characteristically Tatico.

 

Firing of the pots is done on Thursdays in preparation for the market in Paiko on Fridays. There are a number of firings within the village, depending upon the number of pots made during the week. Each firing takes about 40 50 minutes. It is worth going to the village on Thursdays to buy pots before they are transported to Paiko market the following day.

 

Tatico pots are on sale at the pot market in Gin (Gwagwalada) but they are of course slightly cheaper in Tatico. Expect to pay N250-300 for a medium sized pot. Large pots should be ordered in advance. It is better not to go to Tatico early in the week as the women are often out collecting the clay for their pots.

 

For a full explanation of pot production in Tatico see Ceramic Review 122 (1990) p17-19

 

For a full explanation of pottery in Africa see: Smashing Pots: works of clay in Africa. Nigel Barley. Smithsonian

Institution Press (1994). ISBN 1-56098-419-8.

 

Weaving:

 

When the women are engaged in the making of pots, the men are engaged with weaving. The men weave narrow strips on a horizontal narrow strip loom. The main strips are white in colour but there are also blue woven strips. It is possible to buy the strips singularly or sewn together in a basic fashion.

 

The weaving is done outside of the compound by groups of men.  It is possible to see the preparation of the warp on the ground outside of the compound.  For further details on Gwari weaving styles, see the section on Bwari weaving, below.

 

For a full explanation of weaving in Gwari areas, see Nigerian Textiles:  Venice Lamb and Judy Holmes (1980), ISBN 0-907-129-00-5.

 

 

Bwari:

 

When going to Bwari, don’t just visit the pottery, but also explore the village of Bwari. The Gwari village of Bwari has both an Emir and an Esu. If you have taken the older road rather than the new pipeline road. when you arrive at the T junction in the centre of Bwari turn right. Directly opposite the market area on the LHS take the road on the right to the Esu’s palace. You can park here and then look around Bwari. Notice the shrine near the Esu’s palace. This is said to prevent outbreaks of measles. Keep a lookout for the range of grain stores at the edges of the family compounds.

 

The Esu will be able to assist you if you are interested in seeing more of Bwari or if you would like to visit Ushafa to look at the weaving, etc.

 

The Emir’s palace is at the end of the village on the RHS just beyond the post office and the hospital and just before the new pipeline road.

 

The market day in Bwari is Tuesday.

 

 

Ushafa:

 

To get to Ushafa, take the road out of Abuja toward Kubwa. Before the Kubwa turn, take the road on the right signed to Usuma Dam and to Bwari. Pass through the village of Dutse. Just before getting to the gates of Usuma Dam take the road to the left toward Bwari. After a few kilometres the main road turns left. At this junction go straight ahead. There are always sellers of honey and fruit at this junction. The road on the right leads to the pipe making plant. The tarred road leads to Ushafa. To get to the Women’s pottery centre take the first road on the RHS as you enter the village. The centre is 200m farther up this road right in front of you.

 

Ushafa (sometimes known as the Bill Clinton village after his visit there during his whistle stop visit to Nigeria) is the place to find the Women’s pottery centre. Ushafa itself is one of the Gwari villages famed for its pottery. The pottery centre is worth visiting when the women are there and are making pots. The pots produced there are designed partially for an expat market with plant pots, large pots, and tiles being produced.

 

Next to the Women’s pottery center is a government-run Youth Corps facility where young ceramics majors come to learn to create more modern, filtered clay, high fired pottery.  The young men and women of this center make more modern-looking pottery, often with painted, somewhat touristy “African” motifs.  They also make non-traditional clay objects such as beads.

 

Textiles:

 

Ushafa has a small number of weavers. As with many traditional crafts, the number of people weaving is reducing. The range of textiles being produced is also limited, but there are still a number of people creating many interesting textiles for wearing at all the major events in the life of the Gwari communities.

 

One of the important completed women’s Gwari cloth is known as Bubuje. Every Gwari woman has at least two, one worn as a wrap coming right up to the armpits and the other as a head tie worn as a type of turban with a tail hanging down the back.

 

Bubuje cloths play a part in marriage ceremonies both as apparel and as gifts. They are also used as baby ties. Finally the Gwari women are buried with their head ties as a significant part of their funeral dress.

 

The cotton cloth is about three inches wide and is woven so that there are weft holes at each edge. The sewer then joins strips together with a braid, using the same thread that is used for the main strips. Sometimes, instead of the three inch strip, a wider strip of twenty inches is used to make what is essentially a two panel cloth. Once braided together, the cloth is dyed in a mixture of wood ash and wild indigo to produce a very deep blue colour. It is well worth asking to see the dye pits which are not dissimilar to those in Kano but much more interesting. To get to the pits you have to walk through the village and then through farmland to the base of the inselbergs. There are a number of active dye pits and a large number of derelict pits.

 

It is possible to buy Jebuyie (undyed white cloth) and Jesnuda (blue).  The cost of the white is approximately N2000, whereas the blue is approximately N3000.  Because there are few weavers of the quality Shale or Bubuje textiles, it does not seem possible to buy these textiles here.  It may be possible to buy these textiles in some of the other Gwari markets, but we were told that most of the textiles on sale in Kuje, Kwali, etc., would have been made in Ushafa.

 

Mats:

 

The Yucca plant which grows vigorously by the rivers in the valley is used to produce the fibres for the weaving of mats. These mats are not woven in narrow strip as are the woven mats produced in the far north from the Dumm Palm (for sale in Jajimarji, etc.), but are wider and more pliable. The mats were for sale at approximately N1000.

 

To visit the weavers or to see the mats being produced it is first necessary to call on the village head. His house can be found by going into Ushafa from the main junction and then taking the first road to the right towards the women’s pottery centre. When you get to the centre, turn left and go through the village. The District Head’s house can be found on the RHS after a large shade tree. If you have visited the Esu in Bwari he will be able to assist you in making contact with the District Head and through him the artisans in Ushafa.

 

Lapai:

 

Lapai is on the road from Lambata to Bida. It is a Nupe town which is famed for both its straw weaving and its wood carving. The town also has the tombs of ancient chiefs of Lapai from Mallam Usman Jauro, a cattle Fulani, to the last Etsu Lapai.

 

Many of the wood carvings and Bida stools which are for sale in Bida at the house of Alh Tanko are made here in Lapai.

 

As you enter Lapai take the first turn to the left at the small monument. Carry along this road for 500m or so and then turn right. You are looking for Gidan Duwatsu at G79, Gindinga Rd., Lapai. If you can not find the house/workshop, stop a machine (motorcycle) rider and ask him to take you there.

 

The workshop makes “Bida” stools; the multi-legged stools carved from a single piece of wood. They also carve Nupe doors and large carved pounding pots.

 

It’s really interesting to watch the men working on the wooden pieces. They will carve items to order and will willingly carve items from pictures. The prices here are very reasonable, for example a new Bida stool which may cost N4000 in Alh Tank’s shop in Bida will cost N500 here in Lapai. A four panel carved door costs upwards of N10,000.

 

Upper Usuma Dam:

 

Rather than going to the Lower Usuma Dam why not go to the Upper Usuma Dam for a change? Take the road out of Abuja towards Kaduna. Continue out along the Kaduna road past Zuba and then continue towards the road to Bida. Before you get to the Bida turnoff, watch out for the Royal Ceramics factory on the right hand side. Immediately before the factory take the track. The track hits an old tar road after a couple of kilometres. Turn left on the old tar road. The road from here to the lakeside is about one kilometre. Look out for the large calabash tree on the LHS and the piles of waste dumped by the ceramics factory all over the place! There are also a large number of interesting grain stores in this area.

 

The ferry costs N20 to get to the village on the other shore. However if the ferry is not busy they are happy to take you around the lake. Please remember to negotiate the price before you start out. The village, as you would expect from one on the lakeshore, has many fishermen. It is interesting watching them sort the fish and dry them on the shoreline. The nets are hung from the trees on the shoreside. The fishermen fish using a number of techniques. There are small canoes always on the move and there is always something going on.

 

Return to the broken tar road and then continue on the road past the road from Royal Ceramics (on the RHS). At the next village turn left just past the last house. Follow the road down for a kilometre until you get to the lakeside. Just before the shoreside, there is a monument, presumably to the opening of the dam, however the signs on the monument have long since been removed but the site of the monument gives good views over the dam. It appears to be safe to park here and go exploring along the lakeside and along the dam wall to explore the dam system on the far side of the wall.

 

Go back up to the road and then turn left again. Less than one kilometre on, turn left alongside an old chain link fence and by a group of large mango trees. The road is not brilliant and it is probably better to have a 4WD or at least a high clearance vehicle.

 

The road goes under the dam wall and continues along the water’s edge with great views across the water and through a few temporary fishing villages. There are a number of Fulani encampments along the water’s edge and bird watching is interesting.

 

There is one interesting moment with a narrow bridge (without high sides) over a stream. Take it easy! The rest of the journey is OK and you will see the occasional Okada and a few small minibuses so it must be alright for you too!

 

Continue along the road for 5-6 kilometres until you come to a T junction. Turn right. Continue along this road (broken tar) through a number of small villages. After 4-5 kilometres you will arrive in Bwari after passing the Bwari pottery on the LHS. In Bwari, turn right and continue along this road past the road to Ushafa and continue to Dutse and then on to the expressway. Turn left on the expressway (take care) to return to Abuja.

 

 

More things to do in the Kaduna area:

 

Commonwealth War Graves:

 

There are a number of Commonwealth War Graves in Kaduna. They can be found in two cemeteries very close to the Residence in Kaduna. The older of the two cemeteries also contains a number of graves of colonial officers and Europeans who died in Kaduna in the 20th century. The “war graves” are those of both the first and second world wars as well as other conflicts.

 

In the lych gate of the cemetery there is a memorial and an explanation of the conflicts in which the commonwealth soldiers (British, Nigerian, and other nationalities) lost their lives, and the role which Nigerian soldiers played in the second world war.

 

To get to the cemeteries go from the Residence to the Hamdala Hotel. At the first rond about, go straight across. At the next junction, go straight across, down a quiet cul –de-sac. At the bottom of this road you will see on the RHS the cenotaph and the entrance gates to the cemetery in which are buried both Nigerian and British war dead. At the bottom of this road adjacent to Essence School you will also see the second cemetery with elaborate wrought iron gates and old frangipani trees. Take care in this cemetery as there are often ponies and sometimes a camel grazing here.

 

Sabon Birni Market:

 

Another market to explore in the Kaduna area is the Sunday market at Sabon Birni. This market is very much a local village market with areas devoted to calabashes, livestock, food stuffs, pots and particularly fine multi coloured mats. The mats are colourful (with lots of orange) and much cheaper than those purchased from Jarji Marji market in Yobe

 

From Kaduna take the Zaria Rd to Rigachikun. Turn left at the signs for Heritage University which is very close to the small station on the defunct railway. Cross the rail lines and then continue on this road, which is recently tarred, towards Dogon Dawa. There is only one main junction on this road. There is a road coming in on the LHS from the airport. Continue straight on for about 15 Kilometres. The market is not clearly visible from the main road but is in the village centre under the shade of large trees. You will need to keep an eye open for people travelling to the market and for the vehicles travelling to and from the market.