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Fish Dinner at Mogadishu Cantonment – Saturday, 30 June 2007

           

Mogadishu Cantonment is the market right next to Abacha Barracks on the road to Nyanya past Asokoro.  In the middle of the market, there is a square with about 20 grill tables set up where the best croaker, tilapia, and other delicacies are wonderfully spiced and grilled.  The fish is truly delectable, with the meat spicy, and buttery falling off the bones.  Around the grills, there are booths with tables from which you can order drinks, as well as other Nigerian specialties such as pepper soup, etc.  You eat with your hands – no utensils!  The atmosphere is completely Nigerian! 

 

We met at Kyle & Roman's place at 5:30.  We expected 20, but were surprised when 36 people in all showed up for dinner!  After quick introductions and a brief discussion, as storm clouds and rains threatened, we convoyed to Mogadishu.  Just as we arrived, the rain and clouds cleared out.  Once inside, we were able to find a number of tables together – albeit not under cover, ordered drinks and fish.  We then settled in to watch the organized chaos going on around us:  the hustle and bustle of the peddlers going table to table, waitresses serving fish, the smoky grills in the center of the eatery.  Those of us who ordered fish that was already sizzling on the grill were served relatively quickly and ate while more rain clouds gathered ominously above us, while the rest who ordered fish that was not pre-grilled were served much later--just as the rains came! So everyone migrated under cover or a few went home. All in all, it was a great evening filled with food, drink, and fellowship.

 

 

 

                       

 

 

 

 

Rating:

Easy, but spicy.

 

 

Security:

You can attempt to park inside the market, but parking may be limited and you may be forced to park in the lot outside.  I know of no security issues there – it is a busy place with lots of eyes watching.

 

 

Gear:

Seating is outside – be sure to bring mosquito repellent as you’ll go through the evening.  It’s often muddy in places, so wear some suitable footwear.  You’ll be outside, so it may be warm.  It is unsafe to wash your hands before eating in the bowls provided, so bring some way to wash your hands before eating.  You may wish to bring some paper napkins, as those are in scarce supply.  After eating, you can wash your hands with the soap and water provided, but again there may not be anything on which to dry your hands. 

 

 

Costs:

Fuel, N50 entrance fee into the market per vehicle, N600 – N900 (depending on size) or so per fish;  Chips, drinks, etc. extra but at very reasonable prices.  Plan to spend between N800 and N1200+ per person depending on your order.

 

 

Timing:

30 minutes each way to the market, it takes about 2 hours to eat.

 

 

Directions:

 

To the market:

 

  • Take the ring road on the western side of the city away from Maitama and toward Asokoro.
  • At the roundabout at the edge of Asokoro, go straight through toward Asokoro (the airplane house) (not in the direction of ECOWAS – though this is also possible, the entrance onto the Nyanya road is often blocked that way).
  • Take the next left onto the Keffi / Nyanya road.
  • Continue over about three hills and look for a pedestrian overpass (the first one you come to, no matter how many hills you’ve gone over) at the top of the next hill.
  • Turn left into Mogadishu Cantonment just before the pedestrian overpass.
  • If possible, go left into the market to park, otherwise, park outside on the road and walk in. 
  • Ask for the fish grills and look for the rest of us.