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Event Details |
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Nok – 30
September 2006
This had been
our first field trip! We repeated the
trip almost completely as last time:
The area of Nok
is a beautiful spot easily reached within a couple or so hours of
While excavating
a stream for mining prospects earlier in the 20th century, the
workers found stone artifacts which were later dated more than 2000 years
old!
Instead of about
6 of us, as last time, this time, with the increasing popularity of the group
we were 26! It was great fun, but at the
same time a bit tricky with all the people at once.
For one thing,
we had to get the business of joining the Society over with before
starting. That set us back a bit from
the beginning. Then, there was the sorting
out of the vehicles and the convoy. We
had 7 cars all together! Well, after
just 2 turns, we had lost a few, so we had to regroup.
Once on the
road, it was smooth riding (especially since almost all the potholes have been
filled!). We found and arrived at the
Then, we found
out that despite the fact that we had notified the two persons who had been
Felix’s helpers last time (and who still live in Nok), we were not
expected. So, we were asked please to
present ourselves to Alhaji Ibrahim Nok, the village Chief. Thankfully, Alhaji Nok is a very patient,
worldly (daughter and son-in-law in
Well, all this,
plus the regrouping, etc., took some more of our precious time. Finally, we started on the trek to the back
of the valley to go up into the caves where the granaries from the time of the
Fulani invasions still stand. Again,
because of the size of the group, and also because this was now the end of the
rainy season and the vegetation was lush and had to be macheted to make a trail
for us, we were much slower in our progress than planned.
Eventually, we
arrived at the narrow end of the valley, but the vines had overgrown the rocks
so badly that it took our guides quite some time to hack them away from the stones
enough to help us up the 1½ story boulders, one at a time – each of the 26 of
us! Well, you get the picture. Speaking of which – here is a sampling of our
trip: Thanks to Emma & Luis for
their wonderful photographs.
Entering Kwoi
from the highway 
Nok - this way 
We were 26! 
Meet Chief
Alhaji Ibrahim Nok 
Set out on the
hike to the caves 
This is where
the first heads were found 
Pass through the
village 
Love in the
sorghum 
Scenery
Tapping for palm
wine 
We have to cross the same stream 5 times 
Trek through the
high grass 
to the tree of
light 
Enter the jungle to begin our climb 
You must be this
size to enter! 
Then, you have
climb up the boulders,
Then, you have
to fit through this opening 
To emerge on the
other side 
To see the
200-300-year-old granaries 
At last, after climbing some more
boulders, you get to enjoy the view back down the valley toward the
village! 
Along the way,
you might see some iridescent blue beetles with scarlet bodies 
Then, you go to the High Court room where the most important
cases were tried in a closed session by elders 
Watch out when
you emerge – someone might get you! 
Our sincere thanks to Chief Alhaji
Ibrahim Nok for his gracious hospitality! 
From all of us at the Abuja Chapter of
the Nigerian Field Society.
For more info on
Nok, click on: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/nok/hd_nok.htm.
Contact:
Be sure to plan
this trip at least one week ahead of time as there is no phone reception in
Nok, and you are likely going to have to call about a week ahead to reach
someone. Be sure to leave a text message
for anyone who does not answer the phone to ask them to call you to schedule a
trip. In your text message, leave your
name and phone number as well. It may
take several days for someone to receive your text message and call you back –
they have to go to a place where they have reception.
Be sure to get
in touch with the village chief, Alhaji Ibrahim Nok – tel:
Curator: Mr. Mang – 0802-790-9063
Also try: Abdallah – 0806-06503293
Enoch – 0804-545-8565
Jola L.G.C.
Kaduna State
Rating:
Easy until you
have to climb the rocks, then strenuous both up and down, but only for about 15
minutes.
Security:
As usual, there
are many police blocks along the way.
Drive in a tight convoy, when one person stops - everyone stops, and if
at all possible have the lead car be one of those often “exempt” from being
stopped, among them diplomatic tags, Berger, PHC. Also, carry the most official Nigerian ID on
you that you have. Smile, be friendly,
pretend you don’t understand their hints at collecting “a fee,” try to pull
through very slowly and get on your way.
Nok village
seems very safe. We left the cars
unattended. If you wish, you may pay a
tiny amount (10N) to a boy or boys to “watch” your vehicle(s). This is, of course, just a token
gesture. Several loose groups of
villagers might gather here and there to watch you, but they keep their
distance unless you involve them.
Gear:
Loose, very
maneuverable clothing – for pants those new light-weight ones with the leggings
that unzip are ideal, though you will be sliding down some rocks. Jeans are not a good idea as you have to lift
your legs up very high to climb the stones; shorts are just fine, also. Footwear which can grip rock and in which you
can wade through a very shallow stream is helpful, too. A sun hat is mandatory as is good sun block –
you will walk through in the sun for more than an hour (all together round-trip). Lunch, at least a large bottle of water per
person for the walk, and a camera should fill out your pack which should be
snugly attached to your body. Another
large bottle of water for before and after, and maybe a change T-shirt may be
left in the car.
(I wore all the
wrong things the first time around – slip-on Nigerian-style sandals, jeans, and
a black clingy knit shirt, no hat and I made it just fine.)
Costs:
Fuel for 4
hours’ driving, dash of 1000N each for the guides and smaller amounts for
any other guides we may have help us, 100N per person usage fee, 100N per post
card you may buy from the museum.
Timing:
Gather before
9:00am to leave by 9 promptly. It takes
less than 2 hours to get to Nok We will
need at least 3 hours all together to walk, climb, take pictures, eat a snack,
climb down, and walk back, and another hour around the museum, leaving before 5
in the afternoon to return to
Directions:
- From
- Turn toward Keffi and go 31miles east from
the beginning of the road in Asokoro.
- At flyover (overpass) at entrance to Keffi,
turn left and drive north toward Gitada (Gitata), Adure, Kwoi (Kwai),
- Stay on this road for about 75 Kilometers
(44.5 miles)
- Look for a turn-off to your right toward
Kwoi. The turn-off is very easily
recognizable as you will go through “McDonald’s-like” golden arches! Can’t miss it! And, there is a reproduction Nok head under
the arches.
- Go through the
- Turn left onto this road and continue slowly
just into the
- The road will split, continue leftwards – you
should now be able to see an old water tower beyond the trees on the right.
- Come to the next dirt road heading 90 degrees
to the right. If you have come to a
building marked
- Back up to the nearest street (dirt, of
course) to the right (just a few meters back) and enter the village.
- Drive very carefully through the village to
the huge tree with the base of the trunk mostly hollowed out by fire.
- At the tree,
turn left, and continue just a few yards bearing rightwards until you see
another large white sign for the National Museum of Nok leaning against the
museum building on the right.
There is a bit
more information on hard-copy which you can obtain from the Event Coordinator.