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Ushafa Cave – Sunday, 26 August 2007


This trip is, unfortunately cancelled.  It seems that one part of the Nigerian culture with which we are all too familiar has made it impossible for us to learn about another, more important and interesting one.

The Saga of the Cave and the Chief

 

It all started because a friend of a friend of mine found out somehow that there is a cave somewhere in the vicinity of Ushafa which President Clinton was supposed to have visited when he was here, oh so many years ago.  I did some research and asked around, but no-one knew about any cave there, or Clinton’s visit to a cave, and there was no such information on the internet, either.

A group of us, some time later, went to visit the two potteries at Ushafa, and, while I was there, I decided to ask about this reputed cave.  Yes, came the answer from one of the Youth Corps young men at the Government Pottery & Ceramics center, there is a cave.  He said that the cave is near a village nearby.  I asked if we could visit it sometime.  He said he would have to talk to the Chief of the village, as it was a place where they used to hide their families during times of strife.  Fine, I said, we’ll even be willing to bring a token gift, say, a bag or rice, for example, to the Chief and the village, as guests should do. 

So, the young man went off while we toured and shopped at the potteries.  I was sure it would take days to get an answer, but lo and behold, comes the young man back before we have even finished, and says the Chief will be glad to accept a bag or rice and will assemble the elders and will tell us the lore and history of the cave and will take us there.  We just need to call ahead and arrange a convenient day.

Well, that was easy enough!  A few weeks pass and I make enquiries to see who would like to join us and when.  Once I have a date in mind, I call to Ushafa to the young man and tell him the date and ask if that would be convenient for the Chief et alia.  The next day, the young man calls me back.  He says the date and time I picked would be just fine.  The Chief will gladly accept the bag of rice.  He also wants a bag of millet, a bag of sorghum, a bag of maize… oh, and some bottles of rum… oh, and a fighting cock… oh, and…

It was at this point when I finally recovered my tongue and stopped the young man.  I pointed out that the initial bargain was a token bag of rice.  He concurred, but said these are the things the Chief said.  So, I said to the young man that he should go to the Chief and tell him that, alright, we are willing to come with a few bags of grain.  Certainly, however, nothing else. 

Two days later, I receive a call from our kind negotiator who tells me the Chief wants the 4 bags of grains, and 20,000N.  I said, no, we will bring some bags of grain and that is all.  The Chief can take it or leave it.  I also sent a message about how a host in Nigeria is expected to behave toward his guests.

A week later, I asked again, and was told the Chief stands by his last request.  And, that is where the matter stands now.  So, the trip is cancelled.

 

Come, meet the elders of Ushafa and hear the lore of the cave where they and their ancestors used to hide in times of invasion and tribal conflict.  Once we have presented our gifts to them and have had audience with them, we will be led to the cave for a viewing.  Later, if you wish to stop by the pottery, we will have some time to do so.

 

 

Attendance

This is a members-only event.

 

 

Contact:

Roman:  romanszlam@earthlink.net

 

 

Rating:

Moderate as some climbing up a hill may be required.

 

 

Security:

No known security issues.  There was one police road block just after the ring road merges into the road out of town.

 

 

Gear:

We will be outside – be sure to bring mosquito repellent and sunscreen as needed.    Bring your picnic lunch.   Wear suitable footwear for traipsing about.   Be prepared for changing weather conditions.

 

 

Costs:

We have agreed to provide bags of rice and other local staples to the elders in exchange for their time and trouble.  Bring one or help offset the cost of one.

Fuel – approximately ¼ tank—depending on vehicle; consider contributing to help offset the driver’s expenses if you’re riding with someone.  Bring whatever money you may want to spend on the wares. 

 

 

Timing:

We will meet just after 10am at our compound – directions by response.  It takes about ½ hour or so to travel to Ushafa.  We should expect at least a couple of hours to hear the elders and visit the cave.  Let’s have a picnic lunch, too.  Allow about 45 minutes to visit the women’s cooperative and government ceramic center.  We should return by mid-afternoon. 

 

Directions:

Meet at Roman & Kyle’s compound just after 10am – directions by response. 

 

 

Alternately meet in Ushafa at 11am:

 

From the Hilton hotel:

Shehu Shagari north to Maitama past the British Council roundabout

At the end, turn right onto the ring road.

At the end, turn left on the road out of town.

Go about 15 minutes, and look for a large green directional sign for Lower Usuma (Usman) dam, also signs for Biwater.

Turn right toward Lower Usuma dam.

At the gate, turn left (do not go into the Biwater area)

At the next large intersection (vendors selling honey, pots, etc.), proceed straight into Ushafa.

Take the first right (just over the bridge) and continue all the way into the facility, across the dirt road.