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The Nigerian Field Society |
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Abeokuta July 10th, 2004 Instead of sleeping in Saturday morning, we got up early, well before
our 8:00 rendezvous with the Nigerian Field Society. With almost forty
others, we lined up convoy-style, ninth in line, and set out for Abeokuta,
a large town three hours north of Lagos. We drove first through Ikeja and
Agege, idly observing life on the mainland, and left the city mid-morning,
driving for the next hour or two through uniformly green and somewhat
monotonous forested areas. For the most part, the drive went smoothly. One
vehicle stopped with a flat tire on the outskirts of Lagos, but we adapted
quickly, loading its passengers and bags into two other cars and returning
everything to the original vehicle when it caught up a bit later.
We arrived in Abeokuta shortly before noon, going straight to Olumo Rock and dividing into three groups of fifteen for the climb to the top. Each went with guides, all of whom proved reasonably knowledgeable, if sometimes hard to understand. Our group made the trek last, pausing mid-way up to survey the town before visiting the shrine and stepping into several hidden rooms once used as a refuge during war. We made it to the top only after picking our way over rocks and negotiating a rickety flight of stairs, a tough climb made worse by the day’s rain. The rocks were slippery, and it was hard to find solid footholds. Even so, those who braved the climb made it relatively easily, rewarded at the top with beautiful views of the city. At that height, its rusted red roofs were almost charming.
After retracing our steps, we left for Itoku Market, parking just off the main road and walking uphill to a narrow alley lined with women selling beautifully dyed cloth. They saw us coming, a group of expats, and reacted energetically, unfolding yard after yard of cloth and displaying it proudly, calling loudly all the time. It was noisy and crowded and busy, but like most markets, it was surprisingly well organized. Eventually we left, purchases in hand, for the University of Agriculture, a secluded spot several kilometers east of town. We had a leisurely lunch on campus and spent time exploring the grounds before returning to Abeokuta for the day’s last stop, the Alake’s Palace. There we listened to the story of the Alake of Egbaland, a ruler ranking near the top of the Yoruba hierarchy, and toured the palace, a once elegant but now slightly run down building.
Later we stopped briefly at St. Peter’s, Nigeria’s first church,
and then left town, this time taking the Ibadan Expressway. Leaving was
more difficult than expected, as we and three other vehicles lost the
convoy on the outskirts of Abeokuta. We turned down one street and then
another, backtracked, and finally wound up on the expressway, parking and
waiting in hopes of meeting the rest of the group. Luckily, they showed up
a few minutes later, and we made good time. We rolled into Lagos around
6:30, a bit later than planned but still reasonably early. Despite the
rain and one or two minor delays, it was a good trip.
More photos? Click here.
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| ©The Nigerian Field Society | |||||||||||||
Lagos Branch
