The Nigerian Field Society

Lagos Branch

Trips & Talks 2006   Ijebu Ode - 01-2006 Omo Forest - 01-2006 Bioko Island - 02-2006 Total Eclipse - 03-2006 Badagry - 03-2006 Yankari - 03-2006 Ghana - 04-2006 Kuje and Abuja - 05-2006 IITA Ibadan - 07-2006 Osogbo - 08-2006 Niger Republic - 09-2006 Adogbo stilt village - 10-2006

Trip to Badagry 

Saturday, March 11, 2006 

We assembled at 7.30 on Saturday morning at the dock on Ikoyi Island. All showed up with coolers, cameras & a collective sense of anticipation of the journey ahead. 45 of us loaded up on our 3 boats and off we set towards Lagos harbor under a dust gray hazy sky full of smoke from vehicles, fires & a touch of Harmattan. It was with a sense of relief that the industrial piers of Lagos were left behind as we made our way up Porto Novo Creek towards our goal of Badagry.

Our progress was slowed by countless groups of wooden boats full of sand which were being slowly towed back to Lagos to supply the building sites of the city. Each group, of around 8 barges was powered by just one boat, lashed at the rear, which only one small outboard motor. The freeboard of each vessel was no more then a few inches and it was no surprise that every convoy had one soul perched at the front whose only job was to frantically wave a bright article of clothing (usually removed to reveal more anatomy than needed!) as our larger boats approached, willing us to slow down and reduce the wake. Even though we did slow to a few knots, the resulting waves were enough to send the barges up and down and very close to taking on unwanted water. What was remarkable about the cargo these boats carried was the fact that every ton had been collected by the crew diving down to the bottom of the creeks and scooping up the sand in buckets attached to ropes. The sand was then tipped into the bottom of the boat and the process continued until the barges could not possibly hold any more sand without sinking. It made my sometimes loathsome desk job back in an air conditioned office seem like a god-send.

Our destination was finally reached and as we slowed down, the cooling wind, which had been with us during the voyage, was sorely missed. We disembarked & were met by a guide, who informed us of the significance of this spot in the transportation of slaves from the surrounding countryside, across the creek and beyond to waiting slaving ships. It was touching that a place so peaceful could have borne witness to one of the cruelest episodes in humanity’s dark past. We then moved on towards the Palace of the Akran of Badagry. Along the way we saw interesting examples of early 20th century buildings, built in various European styles by returning inhabitants of Badagry who had been finally emancipated & returned to live in these parts using the building styles and techniques to which they had been influenced. A memorable example of which was a Portuguese style single story building which would not have looked out of place in a fishing village in the Algarve.

We moved on towards the palace on foot, through the streets and past many women who were in the process of grilling or smoking several types of fish and meat. The smells reminded one that breakfast had been skipped and lunch was along way off.

We passed under a large arch as we approached the Palace and past what was described as the first Christian Church in Nigeria. We removed our shoes and switched off our last connection with the 21st century – cell phones. On entering the Akran`s reception hall we were greeted by an assistant & asked to sit down in the seats provided. After the hot walk to get there, the coolness of the place was welcome. After advice on protocol and a wait of 15 minutes, there were 3 knocks on a door and the King entered the chamber to the chorus of our attempt at a royal welcome in the local tongue. What followed were 3 speeches, one on behalf of NFS and Legacy, the Akran`s and a response by the British High Commissioner. We were then invited to partake in the Akran`s hospitality in the welcome form of water, gin and 2 types of Kola Nut.

After a group photograph, we visited a few points of interest on our way to the Slave Heritage Museum. We were on a tight schedule & had to hurry round the exhibits and just a whistle stop history lesson of slavery and all its most inhumane aspects.  We finished the touring with a stop at the first multi-storey house in Nigeria. The first translation of the Bible into Yoruba was done in this house. 

As we walked through the dusty streets, the warmth of the smiles & greetings of the people outshone the warmth of the sun. Whenever we passed a shop or a home, all were bursting at the seams with children. The kids all showed a great amount of amusement at this unlikely gaggle of strange people who were invading on their usual Saturday morning rituals. Some of the braver children pointed and shouted phrases which we could not understand, but brought gales of laughter to all the other children.

We then once again boarded the boats and headed back to Lagos, stopping for a quick lunch at Whispering Palms Resort.

As our boat approached Falamo Bridge we were treated to the sight of one brave individual on one of the other boats doing a good impression of Claude Van Dame by hanging precariously over the side of his boat to retrieve some article of clothing which had fallen in the water. This proved to be the last of the day’s excitement before we disembarked and said our goodbyes to new found friends. All in all it had been a great day out and only served to whet the appetite for more of the same.

Thanks to NFS & Legacy for having the enthusiasm to organize such trips and I am sure I can speak for all by saying that we look forward to our next outing with anticipation.

Stuart Buchanan