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Benin Republic Easter, April 2007
Early morning on Good Friday and 17 Field Society members met at the Eko Hotel to depart on this adventure, enthusiastically led by Robin and Hugh Campbell.
L’Auberge de Grand Popo Once in Benin we were warmly welcomed, and loaded into 2 buses to travel to our hotel, the Auberge in Grand Popo. This is situated on the coast in the extreme west of the country, almost at the border with Togo. On arrival we were even more warmly welcomed by our host Guy (pronounced Gee) his wife and all the staff. This hotel is beautifully situated right on the beach. Following a reviving lunch and some good cold beer we had a choice of transport by foot, zem, (local name for okada), or bus, to take us the 2kms or so to a neighbouring village to meet the Feticheur (Oracle or Ju-Ju man). Guy had given us a short informative talk about the Oracle and what to expect before we set off.
Having been escorted to the village and introduced, we all sat around the edge of a small courtyard, part of the Oracle’s home. The Oracle sat on the floor with strings of shells, some stones, and bones; these were shaken, turned and laid to rest on the ground.
Feticheur (Oracle or Ju-Ju man) One member of our party had to buy six oranges and then throw them onto the public road in front of a vehicle! Another had to give something alive to a loved one. A third member of the party had to give something to twins or twins with 3 heads (i.e. triplets); this should be possible sometime, as she is a teacher!
In various locations around the villages we visited, there were shrines, often human in shape. The people care for these by taking food, for example eggs/oil, and also visiting them to tell their troubles. We also came across “fetishes” usually an ordinary object which had acquired some mythical status, a tree for example had some white fabric around the trunk; this meant the tree had magic powers, (able to keep away disease, measles for example). It was revered and cared for by the villagers. Shrine to Legba On Saturday we again had a choice of transport to take us the short distance to the river Mono. Here we boarded 2 small motor boats to take us to a swimming and picnicking spot close to where the river and sea meet. On the way we stopped at a small village where they produce salt from river silt. An intriguing process.
Before the rain set in
Just as we were ready to set off again for our picnic spot, a storm broke that had been threatening to come our way for some time. The villagers very kindly allowed us to shelter in an unused house that had belonged to a priest. Here we had our picnic and a welcome rest sheltering from the rain, which refused to stop. We had to abandon our plans for the rest of the day and return to the hotel. Half the group arrived at the hotel dry as their boat had a waterproof cover, the rest of us were thoroughly soaked, but in excellent spirits none the less!
By early evening we were able to enjoy a spot of bird watching, as the rain had bought out the insects. Later, Guy gave a fascinating talk about Benin and the culture of voodooism. The word vodu (voodoo) refers to a spirit or the spirits intermediary on earth, the priest. There are spirits for all the elements, good and evil etc. and one Supreme God called Mawu. Shrines to Legba, a trickster containing elements of good and evil, are to be seen guarding the entrance to a village or compound.
Our final day, Easter Sunday, was spent attending two further ceremonies special to this area.
Mammy Water is the Spirit of the river. At a nearby village, women performed dancing, singing and clapping for the Mammy ceremony. Mammy Water is a female spirit though the drummers were men and one man took part in the dancing at one point. It was a very lively occasion with lots of drumming and clapping. It took place in a courtyard; the folk taking part all wore a white wrapper, though due to the intensity of the dancing this was hard to keep in place!
Two participants danced at a time, until one appeared to go into some sort of trance, and needed the support of their colleagues. Two “minders” were mopping brows and supporting the dancers when necessary, or escorting them to a neighbouring courtyard to recover. Alcohol was also involved, either consumed or poured over the participants in varying amounts. Other members of the community not taking part joined us to watch. We left with the impression that this had been an authentic ceremony and not performed as a visitor attraction.
Following lunch we walked down to the river and took 2 boats across to the village for the Zangbeto Masquerade. Some of us were in a pirogue (wooden dugout), which was much more efficient for punting across the shallow stretch of water than a western style of boat. African boats work better in Africa than western style boats! The ceremony is performed in mid January, a New Year celebration, and was re-enacted with, it was felt, a few embellishments for the visitors. However, it was a wonderfully colourful affair with more drumming, clapping and singing.
Zangbeto Masquerade in full spin! Four different Masqueraders performed and, after they had whirled and twirled to the drumming, singing and clapping for quite some time, strong men picked up these constructions by their ‘skirts’ and turned them over to reveal …. there was no one inside, or there only a wee vodu charm, or fetish, left on the ground! Magic indeed. Some youngish men then performed some less impressive magic tricks for us, grinding up the glass from a broken beer bottle, and then swallowing it; “water” with special powers so it didn’t soak into the sand, and the piercing of cheeks with needles! The build-up and preparation for these was indeed fascinating to watch, though.
On our final evening Guy and his team provided a delicious fish barbecue on the beach; we sat just above the crashing waves of the Atlantic. The night sky was wonderfully clear. We gazed at the stars, seeing the Milky Way move across the sky as the evening progressed. A great way to end a thoroughly enjoyable and fascinating Easter weekend.
And back to Lagos
Recommended reading:
The "Viceroy of Ouidah" by Bruce Chatwyn "Dieux d’Afrique" by Pierre Verger There is also an informative page on Voodoo in “The Rough Guide to West Africa”.
Liz Wyatt (England)
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Lagos Branch
The Masqueraders are impossible to describe; the wigwam-like ‘costumes’, which are very skilfully made, move around at great speed! As in the Mammy Water ceremony they too had their minders, assisting with directing their progress, and mopping brows when they moved out of sight, we assumed! 
