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The Nigerian Field Society |
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Exploring the Jos Plateau and its Birdlife
The many faces of the Jos Plateau and its abundant bird life were the focus of the NFS June expedition to the north. The spaciousness of the huge and diverse landscapes, the freedom to explore them at leisure on foot, and the opportunity to experience something of the rich cultural heritage of the Plateau communities living together according to centuries-old tribal traditions – these are indelible and precious memories for all 15 people who participated in the tour. Tour leaders were Phil Hall and John Barker, who share decades of first hand experience of life in the Plateau, a thorough familiarity with the land and its bird life, and a relaxed, good humoured approach to travel in Nigeria. We stayed in Jos East in the village of Laminga, at the A P Leventis Ornithological Research Institute. Accommodation was basic, but comfortable and its location was simply stunning. As we ate our cornflakes (with FRESH milk) we could see tantalus monkeys playing atop the granite boulders, mountain hyrax sheltering at mouths of caves, while around us sun birds shimmered, and bee eaters strutted their colours. Awakening to the sound of birdsong in an otherwise silent landscape offered Lagos residents an unaccustomed Nigerian experience. The itinerary included extended rambles in the Institute Reserve; guided tours of the Jos museum and the MOTNA Museum of Traditional Nigerian Architecture; a fleeting acquaintance with the landscapes of the southern suburb of Bukuru, the headquarters of the tin mining industry; explorations of the Rockwater Fish Farm at Rayfield, built and operated by John Barker for 12 years, though now in disrepair; the NESCO hydro-electric scheme reservoirs and dam wall at Kura Falls, and the Birom village communities on the lushly forested escarpment, east of Jos. Each morning Mohammed and Joseph cooked us a magnificent brunch at the Institute, and the company dined at the Scheherazade (dubious) and Hilltop Station (excellent) restaurants on Lebanese and Chinese banquets. An extra treat was a visit to the home of a local dignitary, and friend of the Barkers, whose house was as large as his generous hospitality, and whose garden featured its own golf green. Jos proved a wonderland for the birdos, with plentiful variety of colourful exotica. Kingfishers, herons, hamerkops, and iridiscent starlings glittered by the waters of dams and rivers; grey hornbills and plantain eaters, and the brilliantly coloured purple turaco surveyed the terrain from their tree top roosts; bearded barbet and grey woodpecker chose lower profiles amongst the branches and the blue cordon-bleus delighted on the ground.
A distinctive feature of the landscape as we drove from Abuja towards Jos were huge granite outcrops, lushly vegetated mountain slopes and then came the shadowy blue backdrop of the Jos Plateau, 400 metres above sea level. There, the scenery changed abruptly, with few trees, apart from in the river valleys. Young Fulani lads shepherd herds of Brahmin cattle across the plains. Close to Jos, the ravaged landscape of honeycombed laterite, and unsightly slurry heaps is all that is now left of the once flourishing tin mining industry. . We traveled in a 20-seater Hertz bus – whilst the air conditioner worked, second gear did not, or perhaps the problem lay in contaminated petrol. The vehicle coughed and shuddered its way along and we held our collective breath on the inclines. Road blocks were a constant feature. Heavily armed traffic police laid out creative obstacle courses on the tarmac, with nasty wooden boards mounted with tyre-crippling nails to encourage drivers to comply with the order to stop. However, buses seemed immune and we were waved through every time. On a high open road, we sprang a puncture: and in a reversal of roles, the expats and their vehicle became the subject of curiosity as bystanders gathered from local homesteads. Inside the bus, conversations rang out in a United Nations of languages and accents – English and Australian brogues featured alongside the Dutch and French languages, against the background of the Nigerian radio station.
Road surfaces varied in quality according to the zeal of the relevant authority – federal, state or local. The disappearing tarmac provided Lazarus, the driver, and the Hertz’ suspension with constant challenges. Road junctions were merry market places, with local produce piled high to catch the passing trade. In this fertile vegetable garden of the country, traders offered a colourful array of corn, cabbages, egg plant, tomatoes, oranges, pineapple and yams. Seething queues at petrol stations graphically illustrated the universal petrol shortages; many service stations, security gates shut, were simply closed for business. We topped-up at every opportunity, which also gave passengers the chance to investigate local stores and sample wares – we all indulged in some piping hot baked corn cobs, to the delight of one street trader.
Beside the road, burnt out wrecks and side-tumbled lorries told their stories of failed brakes or incautious driving. The carcass of a petrol tanker lay twisted beneath burnt trees. A crowd gathered at the edge of the road to gaze at a vehicle that had recently strayed. An okada ( motorcycle taxi) driver discovered to his passenger’s cost that three vehicles into one small lane way didn’t go. Sometimes we jostled for space on the carriageway with Brahmin cattle and flocks of goats. For centuries the Plateau was uninhabited. Gradually it became home to many displaced tribes, several of Bantu origin. In spite of the recent collapse of the tin mining and allied industries, the town continues to expand. A factor here is that many people moved to Jos following the introduction in 2001 of Sharia law in the North, for Jos has a long-standing reputation for tolerance of religious and social differences.
Homes are commonly constructed of sun-baked earthenware bricks to a centuries-old formula on a circular model, with beaten earth floors and grass thatched roofs. They are sub-divided to form a living area and a sleeping room. The bed is formed from pressed earth, and tables, seats and stools likewise. Shelves are indented, where goods can be stored in pots. The interiors are clean and dry, cool in the heat, and warm in colder temperatures. On a hot day, water stored indoors in earthenware pots remains cold. Grain is stored in similarly built huts, raised off the ground as a protection from the weather and predators. The family head traditionally has his own hut, and each wife her own also. Huts are clustered together in family groups, surrounded by the family’s smallholdings, where chickens and goats scavenge. Fire-wood and roof grasses are piled in orderly stacks close by. Each property is defined by its own natural high security fence, of euphorbia which offers the double protection – sharp thorns and a blinding milky secretion………Most are gaily strewn with the family wash – no pegs required! Where the ground is rocky, homes are built directly onto granite foundations. From these simple homes, the women emerge in their Sunday best, extravagant headwear, brightly coloured cloths featuring traditional and modern patterns, with lace and brocade trims, clean and smart. With baby tied to the back and a Bible in hand they embark on the long walk to the nearest mission.
Communities are dotted tidily across the landscape, some close together, some far spread. Many of the larger groups have access to wells. Others may rely on river water. This NFS trip was a wonderful and very full four-day excursion, a chance for old hands and newcomers to experience Nigeria and its culture from a new perspective. Each participant was captivated, bringing home refreshing insights and enthusiasm for this most diverse and colourful of countries and its people, appreciative of the wisdom of our leaders and the camaraderie of the group.
Prescilla Tiplady
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Lagos Branch
Jos Plateau near to Aplori
Jos Plateau near to Aplori
