The Nigerian Field Society

Lagos Branch

Trips & Talks 2007   Ikorodu - 02-2007 IITA-Iseyin-Ado Awaiye - 03-2007 Benin Republic - 04-2007 Kuje - Abuja - 05-2007 Lagbaja Concert - Ikeja - 05-2007 Jos Plateau - 05-2007 IITA Ibadan - 07-2007 Okomu - 08-2007 New Africa Shrine - 09-2007 Apapa Flour Mill - 09-2007 Benin City-Okomu - 10-2007 Mali - 10-2007 Ikogbo - 11-2007 Okomu - 11-2007

Evening Tour to New Africa Shrine 

September 16th, 2007 

20:00 to 0:30

Have you ever heard about Oduduwa Street in Ikeja? Well, it is one of those nice hospitable places in town, where the hosts not only welcome you with an inviting smile and warm hug, but also serve the most delicious food, a mixture of Filipino-British-Nigerian cooking that makes you enjoy the beauty of diversity. (Daghan salamat, Veronica, lami kaayo ang imong pagluto ug pagkaon!) Thanks to Veronica Snoxell, the organizer of this evening, 23 NFS people left her place with a pleasantly filled stomach and in high spirit convoying to the “New Africa Shrine”, the musical temple of Femi Kuti, a former warehouse in an industrial area of Ikeja.

Since Femi Kuti himself was still not on stage, under the sound of his big band we could have a look around the place decorated with pictures of panAfricanist poets and heroes. Right in the heart of the Shrine near to the stage and dance floor, a small shrine like an altar is put up in commemoration of Femi’s father, the late Fela Anikulapo Kuti. Two eternal flames, the continual sound and flow of water, pictures from Fela’s so violently demolished “The Shrine” reminds the visitor of the creator of Afro-beat, the founder of a whole politico-cultural protest movement, whom many Nigerians worship as an icon.

For the next three hours, we could witness with all our senses the finest and most popular kind of Afro-beat, this fusion of African music, jazz and soul. Femi Kuti’s charismatic personality was fascinating, this combination of physical discipline and emotional aura overwhelming. Kuti’s intensity combined with the energy of his male band and female dancers made for a great performance. No matter whether he was singing or playing the saxophone, trumpet or electric piano, people were more and more carried away by the vibration of his music. Thus, it was not surprising that after some time several of our NFS-group were overpowered by the force of Femi’s music and joined the crowd on the dance floor.

What an evening of unusual entertainment and performance in a unique setting! But was it just the rhythm of tunes and the way Femi acts on stage that carried people away? This may be the case with a crowd-pleaser like “Shotan”. But what about songs like “Africa must unite”or “Obasanjo”? Under the Obasanjo administration, The Shrine of his late father Fela was destroyed and the existence of his New Africa Shrine was threatened. I personally regret that I understood so little about the lyrics of his songs which seem to carry a strong message of Femi as a protest singer. When watching the interaction between Femi and the audience, I got the feeling that the New Africa Shrine is much more than a place for entertainment. It is a shrine in every sense showing the artist Femi Kuti with all his passion, energy and good vibration, but also showing a brave and outspoken performer using music as a weapon for his contemplative, forceful messages.
Thanks, Veronica, for organizing this trip! I will certainly return to the New Africa Shrine.

Erika Cramer (Germany)