The Nigerian Field Society

Lagos Branch

Trips & Talks 2008   Osogbo - 01-2008 IITA Ibadan - 01-2008 Niger boat trip - 02-2008 Benin Republic - 02-2008 Omo Forest - 02-2008 Shyllon Art Collection - 03-2008 Argungu Fishing Festival - 03-2008 Kano and Jibia - 03-2008 Lake Chad and Sukur - 04-2008 Lekki Lagoon boat trip - 05-2008 Jos - 05-2008 Benin Republic - 05-2008 IITA Ibadan - 06-2008 Osogbo - 07-2008 Peak Milk - 08-2008 CCA - Yab a - 08-2008 Kano + Katsina - 09-2008 The Africa Shrine - 10-2008

Grand Popo and Ouidah in Benin Republic 

February, 8th - 10th, 2008 

Bright and Early on Friday morning 08 February, 17 intrepid explorers met at the parking lot of the Eko Hotel in VI ... destination Benin! A happy and excited multi national bunch, ages 4 to 58 years all ready and raring to go. Six cars and the Mopol in convoy to the border, this took us about an hour and half in some busy traffic. However the border was a much busier place. It seems the key to crossing this border is patience….after about an hour and a half we were in Benin. Our guides from the hotel were there to meet us and we left all the cars in Nigeria and happily climbed into two small mini buses. I am still a bit at a loss to say exactly why it suddenly seemed so different… cleaner, yes, .. less crowded, yes, … better roads, yes … all in all Benin at first exposure seemed calmer and better organized than its big neighbor to the east.

Travelling by ferry across the river at Grand Popo to experience the ceremony of the Zegbah, Guardian of the Night	Zegbah, the Guardian of the Night ceremony

Soon we were in Cotonou, where we stopped for a quick break. Then on to the Auberge at Grand Popo. This lovely little hotel owned by Guy Catherine is nestled between the palms on a ‘never-ending’ beach. The guest rooms are in separate building from the lobby and restaurant. Upon our arrival we freshened up in our rooms and then had lunch in the welcoming terrace restaurant, with a cool ocean breeze on one side and the local people walking along the road on the other. Our meal of salad, fish and fresh fruit was very satisfying and generous. Now the adventure begins…

After a short stroll from the Hotel to the village we crossed the river in two large dug out canoes.  The canoes were very deep but with no seating, we wobbled across to the other side and encountered our first Voodoo fetish, Legbah.  Voodoo is practiced by the majority of Beninois and the Legbah fetish is a shrine which protects the village.  Here offerings are made to the fetish and prayers are given.  The fetish itself was a cone shaped mud/clay figure, about four feet tall with shell eyes and raffia hair.  Although strange looking not too frightening!  The village was mainly breeze block one story buildings with the occasional mud walled hut.  People were very respectful and offered us cheerful “Bonjour’s” as they went about their business.  Our destination was a small open area/square on the rivers edge with another fetish and a cement shelf around the buildings for us to sit on. 

Legbah, the Protector.  The Legbah fetishes are typically located at the entry to villages and outside of people's houses	The Fah is a traditional diviner or fortune teller

We arrived just in time for the Voodoo masquerade. At one side of the open area a band of drummers are playing and beside them men and women are dancing. It was very invigorating and exciting to watch. Suddenly a whirling fetish arrived: a seven foot cone covered in different colours of raffia and topped with horns. Around and around it goes. Following its “trainer” the fetish moves across and around the square, stopping at times, shuddering and then resuming it’s spinning around the square. Then another one comes out…slightly different in colours and without horns this time. More and more villagers come along and sit to watch and we have quite a party atmosphere. The trainers go to great lengths to show us the fetish has no one inside it. Soon there were five of these ‘things’ careening around the square accompanied by the non-stop drumming and many dancers. From time to time five or six men slowly, and with great effort turn the fetish on its side, and lo and behold the inside is empty…but miraculously once it is turned upright again off it goes whirling and dipping all over the square! Magic. In case we had any unbelievers in our midst the trainers pulverized a beer bottle and swallowed the glass bits with lashings of beer - the digested glass gave no ill effects…Magic again.

Upon our return to the hotel … another very nice meal awaited us, then bed and a refreshing nights sleep.

The next day is the day to visit the Fah, the high priest of Voodoo for the area. In a cozy and shady court yard we find him, dressed in a white skirt and prayer cap. The Fah is an older, plump gentleman sitting waiting to greet us and assess our fortune and offer some helpful hints. The Fah spent three hours with eight of us, and only answered his cell phone twice. With a shake of stones, a stirring of the bones, metal bits and rocks and a rattling of the seed-pod necklace the Fah answered our deepest secret questions (only know to us individually). All in all the Fah was very kind to us, no terrible shocks in anyone’s future and all advice given was on how to ones increase good fortune. He must have been in his “fruit salad phase” as many of our prescriptions included fruit…rubbing pineapple all over the body, peeling and sharing pineapple with others, and some more giving of food and gifts. Dare I say, Magic again?

It was then off to the local market. The Market is a small one, full of fruits (purchases made here to carryout the Fah’s instructions) and vegetables, pots and pans and second hand clothes. A much quieter place than a Nigerian market and we were left in peace to wander and look at all the wares.

Late in the afternoon we were off for a long boat ride along the river that runs parallel to the beach. We comfortably motored by many small villages and fishermen poling along or throwing their nets. At the confluence of the sea and river we stopped and walked on the beach for a short while. On the way back we stopped at a small village that is known for making salt. The village children came out to greet us and we saw three large pots and the furnaces used to make salt. The women of the village bring mud back from the mangrove forests, it is then placed in the baskets and rinsed repeatedly till the salt water drips out, this is then taken to a shed where it is placed in a clay oven and boiled until only the salt remains. It was unclear how long this process takes but it seemed to be very labor intensive. Our trip back was very relaxing, as the sunset was a copper pink colour and very peaceful and beautiful.

A very special evening was planned. Just above the high tide line and under the stars our dinner table was set up. The barracuda was on the BBQ. The drummers and dancers were in full swing. The food was beautiful and fresh. Wine was enjoyed by all. And more magic as phosphorescence was visible on the wave break.

Sunday was the last day in Benin for this trip. The morning is foggy and quiet with drops of water falling off the trees. The plan for the day was energetic, hoping to be at the border by 2 pm and home well before dark. Once everyone is loaded in the vans we start off for Ouida, home of the Python Pavilion. The pythons are considered to be sacred and are allowed the freedom of the city! The small pavilion with its inhabitants of snakes sits on a square with the catholic church on the other side. Our guide explains how the outbuildings are put to use in the sacred ceremonies and then we go into the snake house. Here the walls are lined with sleeping snakes. Fortunately not as many snakes or as big snakes as I had imagined. And they were all sleeping peacefully. The day is getting very warm. Our next destination is the old slave fort. Ouida was an important gathering point for many slaves that were transported from Benin to North and South America. The fort is quite large, and the small museum inside has a few artifacts. Anything of iron has rusted away, and most of the other artifacts are broken. However the fort itself is substantial and still sends chills up your spine when you imagine the degradation and future of the slaves that were here long ago.

The next stop was for lunch on the beach. At this point we are running a little bit behind schedule, so we shall have to hurry. Our drive from Ouida to the border runs along the beach and although a bit bumpy very rewarding as we pass many picturesque fishing villages and colorfully dressed people. And now the border, it is very busy and hot! It takes about an hour and half to cross over, again no problems just waiting for everything to be looked at thoroughly and recorded.

Back in Nigeria it is convoy time again with the Mopol a big help when the traffic backed-up. As I watched the traffic rush by, the Mopol ducking and diving, weaving and honking, leaping out of the car and bullying traffic, couldn’t help thinking I’m home…and as I looked at the crowds and confusion wondering a little … ”I’m home?”

This was my first NFS trip and I found it very enjoyable. It said in the advertising that it was “Child friendly” this meant very, very adult friendly too. Special thanks go to Hugh, (the oracle) and Robin Campbell who gently and patiently shepherded us around. Benin is a destination to remember.

Jane Small, Canada

For those of you who may wish to travel to Grand Popo on your own, the following are the contact details for L'Auberge Grand Popo.  For those of you who wish to travel to Benin Republic in your own car only as far as the Seme border, as the NFS group did, the Auberge offers a pick up service.   Guy Catherine, L'Auberge Grand Popo, Tel. (229)22 43 00 47, e-mail: voyageur@intnet.bj