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Trip to Kano and the North March, 20th - 24th, 2008 Trip Leaders: Mario & Fatima Plata - Guide: Danjuma (Friday) By Arik Air we arrived in Kano at around 3.15pm and transferred to The Prince Hotel arriving around 4.00pm. We were pleased to find well appointed rooms, grounds and pool and good meals. The late afternoon was spent relaxing and some of our group went swimming or had a drink with friends. That evening we went to the Calypso Restaurant at the hotel, our group was convivial and we met other NFS members. Mario addressed us at frequent intervals to advise us of the programme and what we could expect. Our bus was modern, comfortable and with good aircon. 21st March - Good Friday
We then proceeded to see the main village and saw the numerous pots awaiting firing in the kilns which were in use. The kilns were impressive and a large number of pots could be fired at a time. All the while we were accompanied by the children of the village and I believe we were unusual visitors in the village and great entertainment….
Mario was informed that the hunters of the village wished to give us a demonstration of their skills.
On leaving the village we passed an impressive felling of a mature tree - all cut by hand by one man. It was a shame to cut down such a tree but fuel is needed for the kilns and other pressing needs such as cooking.
We visited the weaving village of Minjibir, with a great welcome from the village people. Weaving was being carried on by the experienced weavers and the results were very attractive. The process is an old one but used widely in other parts of the world; virtually the same methods. Later we had the opportunity to purchase some of their skilfully handwoven attractive cotton cloth which can be used for many purposes, bed sheets, curtains, bedcovers, cushions etc. We continued on our way travelling to another village where they had a larger weaving enterprise and at least a dozen weavers all working in the heat of the day, though in a sheltered situation. After observing the work in progress we again made purchases of the attractive handwoven cotton cloth. We returned for lunch to the Prince Hotel.
The Gidan Makama museum is opposite the Emir’s Palace. The Museum dates from the 15th Century and is undergoing refurbishment, consequently there were no items of art or furniture apart from one apartment with the Jihad in Arabic and English and another with garments in glass cases. We did see the Bride’s room where she stays before and during the marriage ceremony. A large number of beautifully dressed local muslim ladies, were awaiting a lecture on religious issues. The roof and very thick walls were in a dark red mud which made the interior surprisingly cool; windows have been carefully placed to enable cool breezes to circulate. Afterwards we walked across to Emir’s walled Palace with an impressive gateway; also the arena outside the Emir’s palace where the Durbar is held. We were not permitted entrance to the palace A last stop on our return to the Prince Hotel was to see the remains of The Old City Wall which had been refurbished by generous support from the German Government. This again was built in the dark red mud with very thick walls and we made this a photo stop. We returned to the hotel and made our way in the evening to a Chinese Restaurant where they were a bit overwhelmed by our presence - not speaking English -our meal took some time to arrive but was well worth the wait and - we had good company and drinks to keep us going!! Saturday 22nd March
On arrival at the nomadic Fulani village we were given a great welcome by the children smiling and waving - the young girls wore brightly colored scarves. The men of the village were already dancing….however, it appeared we were a little early and we were sent to see a nomadic village close by. Here we saw the women pounding a grain called sorghum - the nomadic habitations of the villagers were made of straw and round in shape - there were also reed woven granaries set above ground to allow air to circulate. The Fulani people take great pride in their white cattle with great horns, indeed the cattle looked sleek and well cared for. The feeding of the cattle is what makes it necessary for these people to be nomadic as they follow after fresh pasture. The Fulani use a special language for speaking commands to the cattle which they grow to understand. Returning to the Gurza Fulani village where the Fulani wedding was to take place we were invited to see how the cows were milked and were told that the cattlemen could live all day on milk.
Now the Sharo ceremony commenced - this is the beating of the prospective husband ….to show that he is brave enough to defend his new bride. In all there were three young men competing for the bride and during the beating and after they must show their bravery by not crying out or showing any reaction to the pain inflicted. The first young man sat on a stool before us and took off his shirt and covered his body with a cloth and an apron of leather. Meanwhile, there was a lot of swishing of sticks. After receiving encouragement from a friend to be brave; lots more dancing by the men of the village; followed by a group of young girls which included the bride - the striker with a great flourish struck the young bridegroom across the ribs - the young bridegroom bravely bore the pain and the welt was shown to us all. Some young girls sat near the feet of the prospective bridegroom to ‘wipe away the pain‘ (fortunately no blood). There was a lot of noise throughout and the elders were whipping back the encroaching crowd. Another young man took his place on the stool and there was more dancing by the young men of the village - again the young girls danced and with another flourish the striker struck this young man…who then showed us all the welt where he had been hit. More dancing.... Now a third young man took his place on the stool and removed his shirt, but this young man did not have the courage to bear the beating and needs to return another year when he has more strength.. The first bridegroom took another beating and he would win the bride. The Bride’s father makes an agreement with the prospective Bridegroom’s father about Bride Price which can be anything between N10,000 and N100,000 plus cattle. Danjuma, our guide, told me the bride would be about eleven years old and that the bridegroom would be about seventeen. Two months before this event the bride would have undergone female circumcision ….an abhorrent tradition. I was also informed that brides can be as young as eight years old. The bride cannot marry a young man who will not bear the Sharo beating. The brides need to be very young because otherwise they may become flirty as they get older and then the family will be disgraced and the Bride’s father not receive a Bride Price!! When a father is not agreeable to a marriage he will demand an impossible bride price.
After the Sharo ceremony the bride will go and live in the household of the bridegroom’s parents and there she will learn to cook and take care of the household. Meanwhile, the bridegroom is sent away for at least a year or more where he will look after the cattle belonging to the bride’s family (this is part of the bride price). A respected older woman of the village will advise both bride and groom about how to conduct themselves to ensure the marriage is lasting and successful. When the Sharo was ended we were invited to an enclosed area of the bride’s family where the young girls were pounding millet (Pora) grain to produce a special (Nono) cow’s milk drink (tasting like yoghurt & cereal) which we were invited to share. This food is provided by the Bridegroom’s mother. The Bridegroom’s mother will build a house for the new couple. When the bridegroom has his own land and cattle he will build his own home away from his parents. It was now time to bid farewell to the villagers and they gave us a great send-off with the children waving and running after the bus all laughing and smiling and calling out to us. The Tiga dam south of Kano is a big natural dam built by Audu Bako Governor of Kano State from 1968-1975 and holds a huge water basin used for intensive farming in the whole area. At the bottom of the dam we had our picnic in the shade of trees overlooking a gushing waterfall and pool. Walking up to the dam we saw a more dramatic fierce waterfall and the beautiful expanse of the dam itself. Very restful, after all the excitement of the Fulani wedding. Late afternoon; we travelled toward Kano and stopped on the way for a visit to see Kure’s farm where we saw all the growing fields of tomatoes, corn, peppers, wheat and other cereals. Edna the youngest member of the group particularly enjoyed this visit and treasured the tomato she gathered there. Our visit ended with the Fulani bringing their cattle home at the end of the day, a very pleasant sight. Some of the cattle minders were very young indeed - six years old I would guess. They wore brightly coloured clothes and made us very welcome. On our return to the Prince Hotel - we gathered for a barbecue around the swimming pool - the food was very good indeed and we enjoyed a very pleasant evening remembering all we had seen, until the number of mosquitos and a swooping bat sent us off to bed!! Easter Sunday 23rd March
Arriving in Jibiya with its closeness to the Sahara desert - we entered the Camel Market - this was an amazing experience - the camels, many cattle, noises and smells as well as all the produce, cereals, spices and colourful people. Here the men of the desert cover their faces to protect themselves from the dust….. we coughed and sneezed - with the camels and cattle kicking the dust…everywhere…. Just pausing for a moment to take a photo - I lost my group….not a good place to be lost with no common language - and the surrounding crowd of curious people crushing in on you. However, minutes later I saw the men’s group and all was well. In other parts of the market, people bought the attractive calabashes, beads, cloth and pumpkins… etc. With the heat, flies, smells and crush of people you cannot stay in the market for long…. Though we all greatly enjoyed the experience. ‘Katsina Old College’ dates from 1921 and here we were shown around the building built in traditional red clay materials of natural construction with no concrete. Many past presidents and influential figures of Nigeria have been educated here. On our way here, we were invited to a guest house owned by Julius Berger & Co. for a late lunch. We greatly appreciated this kindness. An interesting stop was made to purchase Kilishi - the spicy dried meat which is a delicacy. Along the roadside we saw tomatoes being sun-dried as well as chillies which was very colorful.
There is a lot of tree planting needed here to retain soil because of the nearness of the desert. Everywhere, straw was drying in bundles in the trees - I was told this is for animal feed. The houses in the north are round while the houses in the south are usually square. We passed by many beautiful enclosed villages with their round thatched houses and woven granaries, all beautifully kept. There was a lot of brick making going on, using the natural sand and mud readily available. At present many swallows are in evidence, migrating here while there is winter in Europe. Plastic pollution is a problem and high time to ban its use - the trees by the road were often covered in shreds of plastic as well as other plants. Of course this is a hazard for the animals, though we were told the goats could now survive it. This plastic as well as other rubbish has been thrown thoughtlessly from passing vehicles. Monday 24th March
Moving on to Kurmi market we now had the opportunity to purchase, the cotton blankets, calabashes, beads, leather work etc. Again the day was hot but we were so keen to see everything this was not any trouble to us. Our trusty air conditioned bus and good supply of chilled water was always there for us when needed. Two of our group Martin and Andy took a daring trip back to the hotel by Okada ….and I am sure they enjoyed it….in and out of the crowded market place with tuktuks and many obstructions in their way!!
All of us will remember the warm hospitality and generosity of spirit of these lovely people with their laughing eyes and brilliant smiles! Cherie Duffield (UK)
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Lagos Branch
